A Sojourn in Sicily: Where Mediterranean Charm Meets Italian Heritage

Perfectly placed in the heart of the Mediterranean, the seductively gorgeous island of Sicily had been luring our minds ever since we saw amazing pictures with its dazzling diversity of landscapes and cultural treasures. To escape the cold and gloomy days in Seattle in favor of abundant sunshine and perfect temperatures in Sicily, December seemed like the perfect time to go.

During the Christmas vacation of 2022, we had the opportunity to spend 6 days in this amazing island where Baroque architecture, art and culture intertwine with an abundance of outstanding natural beauty ranging from radiant blue seascapes, golden beaches to majestic mist-capped mountains rising up from rugged shorelines.

Augusta, our home base in South East Sicily:

For the first four days of our visit, we stayed in Augusta, a town in the province of Syracuse, located on the eastern coast of Sicily. Augusta proved to be a relaxing base from which we could explore the eastern and southern parts of the island with easy access to the Autostrada, which made touring by car really simple.

Our apartment in the heart of Augusta, was literally perched on the Mediterranean sea, and needless to say, had some majestic views over the ocean right from the comfort of our bedrooms and the living/dining area. We enjoyed a really comfortable stay of 4 nights here, with amazing owners who made us feel at home. To add to that, our owner, Emiliano had this ultimate garage music studio that immediately drew my husband's attention, and he ended up spending a good 4-5 hours on Christmas night jamming with Emiliano.

Day 1: Christmas Eve in Catania

We arrived in Sicily from Nice by plane, landing at around 3:00 pm. After picking up the rental car from the airport, we headed straight over to the Catania downtown. We were all a bit hungry after the flight, and decided to try our luck with some typical Sicilian street food - Arancini - delicious, crispy, deep fried Sicilian balls of rice, with a meat sauce and mozzarella cheese filling and crunchy breadcrumb coating. They tasted really awesome, and we ended up ordering seconds.

Overlooking the eastern coast of Sicily is the city of Catania, the undisputed capital of Sicilian Baroque. A short walk through the streets of the old town is enough to appreciate why UNESCO decided to protect its architecture by declaring it a World Heritage Site. Piazza del Duomo is the central city square in Catania, surrounded by numerous Baroque-style buildings and embellished by the presence of the grand Cattedrale di Sant'Agata and the Fontana dell'Elefante - an 18th century fountain with an ancient basalt elephant called “u Liotru” surmounted by an Egyptian obelisk.

We spent a couple of hours admiring the holiday decorations in and around the Piazza del Duomo, stopping frequently to enjoy the stunning array of baroque architectural masterpieces. Of course, we had to also stop for some amazing gelato, after all we were in Italy!

Catania definitely had plenty more to explore, but it had been a really long day with the travel and everything, so we decided to call it quits for the day and drive to our home in Augusta.

Day 2 - Christmas day in Taormina:

A natural terrace overlooking the sea, Taormina, with its medieval village appearance, sweeping Ionian seascapes, and ancient Greek soul was our next destination in Sicily.

We reached Taormina, which is about an hour and a half drive from Augusta, at around 11:30 am. After finding a suitable spot for parking, we started walking targeting the ancient Greek theater as the destination, walking along the Corso Umberto, the main thoroughfare of Taormina, dedicated to the late nineteenth century Italian king Umberto I of Savoy. Bordered on the north by Porta Messina and on the south by Porta Catania, the Corso is a magnificent display of buildings belonging to styles from different eras, from the Arabic to the Norman, from the Gothic to the Baroque. Just walking along this pedestrian-friendly, boutique lined, patchwork quilt of winding cobblestone alleys was a treat in itself. The incredible view of the Ionian sea and the majestic backdrop of the volcano Mount Etna simply took our breath away.

We headed towards Taormina's most famous landmark - Teatro antico di Taormina, an ancient horseshoe-shaped amphitheater, with majestic ruins and stage pillars perfectly framing the cobalt blue waters of the Ionian sea, and the gorgeous Mt Etna majestically looming on the southern horizon. Built in the 3rd century BC, the theatre is remarkably well preserved and is still used today for opera and musical performances. It was a marvelous day - sunny and clear, and the views from the theater out over the blue Ionian Sea and of Mount Etna were simply spectacular! We spent a good 2-3 hours just walking around, marveling the view, and enjoying some desserts and coffee with a magnificent view of the ocean at the small café on the premises.

All this walking and climbing had whetted our appetite, and it was also way past our lunch time - we started heading back to the main piazza on Corso Umberto, looking for a restaurant that was open - it was Christmas day and many of the eateries were closed for the day. Right across from Chiesa di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria, we spotted restaurant Badia, a small family run restaurant with a warm and cozy ambience. The illuminated "Open" sign was the most delightful sight for us at that moment. The food was simply delicious!

After lunch, we decided to try our luck at the aerial tramway (Funivia Taormina) on the Ionian sea, that connects the historic city center of Taormina to its beach area of Mazzarò. Surprisingly, the cable car was running even on Christmas day, so we bought tickets for 6 euros each for a roundtrip ride, mostly to enjoy the gorgeous panoramic views up and down the enchanting coastline.

It was a day well spent, we decided to wrap up and head back home, in time to enjoy a beautiful sunset to conclude a very eventful Christmas. And did I already mention? There was a pleasant surprise waiting for us at Emiliano's studio - we enjoyed some great songs by my husband, accompanied by Emiliano's guitar - what a perfect ending to a perfect Christmas day!

Day 3: Province of Ragusa

Scicli (pronounced shi-kli):

A quaint, laid-back town in the province of Ragusa in the Val di Noto, Scicli was our first stop on Day 3. Situated at the junction of three valleys just a few miles from the sea, the medieval layout of the historic centre of Scicli is an expression of the late Baroque age, the result of the 18th-century reconstruction following the disastrous earthquake of 1693 that razed the entire region to the ground.

Scicli's most striking Baroque palace is Palazzo Beneventano, on Via Duca d'Aosta, featuring an impressive Baroque architecture with imposing masks of leering faces, monstrous beasts and other architectural fantasies, partially corroded over the passage of time.

We decided to randomly explore the lane to the right of the palazzo leading to a winding pathway of staircases ascending the hilly region above town. The short but steep climb took us past ancient, new, ruined and restored buildings, remarkable views of gorges and caves in the cliffs beyond the valley, before emerging onto a terrace with spectacular views over the entire town of Scicli. We spent some time soaking in the vast panoramic views of the beautiful medieval town.

We started our descend back to the main part of town. One of the architectural highlights right in the heart of the town, on the Via Penna is the Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo, one of Scicli's magnificent eighteenth-century Baroque style Roman Catholic churches.

As we sauntered around at a leisurely pace, we were rewarded with plenty of other picturesque spots along the valley - quiet courtyards and quaint churches, hidden views around random corners, thoroughly enjoying the vibe of the simple scenes of everyday life in the slow-paced, sun-soaked atmosphere of provincial Sicily.

Modica:

Our second stop for the day was Modica - another spectacular UNESCO world heritage site in south-eastern Sicily, with the historic center perched on a hill in the Iblei mountains (Modica Alta) and the newer part of town nestled in the valley (Modica Bassa); the old and new connected by a labyrinth of narrow, meandering streets and staircases. Each turn in our stroll revealed a view of elegant architecture, extravagant churches embellished with ancient artwork and perfectly inlaid stunning baroque façades.

Modica is known as the ‘city of a hundred bells and a hundred churches’, so it came as little surprise to us that churches were our top highlights in Modica in addition to the mouthwatering lunch we had at restaurant Egopizza.

Damaged by the passing of the centuries and the frequent earthquakes that shook the area, the Duomo di San Pietro, the main attraction in Modica Bassa, was rebuilt several times and has been almost entirely reconstructed, with the addition of the monumental staircase lined with life-sized structures of the Apostles in 1876. We spent quite a bit of time marveling the exquisite Baroque style façade. We did not get a chance to check out the interior of this architectural masterpiece, since it was not open for visits at the time. Instead, we started our ascend towards the upper part of the town, Modica Alta.

The Duomo di San Giorgio, located in Modica Alta, and a steep climb of several hundred steps away from Modica Bassa, was one of Sicily's most impressive baroque churches that we visited during this entire trip. The emblematic monument of Sicilian baroque stands tall in isolated splendor at the top of a gorgeous 19th-century staircase, its three-tiered façade majestically overlooking the winding medieval alleyways of the baroque town.

The lavish interior, a glistening medley of silver, gold and light cyan all around, has a Latin cross floor plan with five naves, and many magnificent pieces of art. We spent some time admiring the opulent décor and the captivating artwork.

We couldn't resist a peek of the sweeping panoramic views from the Cupola (aka dome) - overlooking the rooftops of Modica Alta, and the magnificent valley view of Modica Bassa.

Tired from all the steep climbs and stairs, we slowly started heading back down towards the car, enjoying the amazing views at every turn and as we descended each step.

Ragusa:

Our final stop for the day was the magnificent Ragusa - a town that is basically two cities in one, the upper town known as Ragusa Superiore and the older town in lower elevation, Ragusa Ibla, the two halves separated by the deep ravine, Valle dei Ponti. Like much of this Val di Noto region of south east Sicily, Ragusa was also reborn following the devastating earthquake of the seventeenth century. Public opinion on where to rebuild the town was divided, hence a compromise was made. The wealthier, more aristocratic citizens built a new town on higher ground, while the other half of the population rebuilt directly atop Ragusa’s original site in Ragusa Ibla.

We started off with a climb to Ragusa Superiore, thinking the steep climb might get tiring towards the end of the day. After all, it had been a long day of stairs for us already. While climbing up through the narrow maze of winding streets and stairways, in a narrow alley leading up to the plateau of Ragusa, we came across a magnificent Baroque-style, Roman Catholic church - Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Itria.

Trying to get the most out of the limited hours of daylight left, we resisted the urge to spend too much time inside and continued our climb through the stairs towards Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Scale - not as a destination per se, but mainly to enjoy the views of Ragusa Ibla from the terrace in front of the church. While the views are incredible all the way along, what awaited us at the top was simply breathtaking - the cobalt blue dome of the the bell tower of the Santa Maria dell’Itria Church dominated the panoramic view of the historic town of Ragusa Ibla below, with its maze of cloistered and clustered streets lined with honey colored buildings, grand squares and palazzos, towering churches - all seemingly piled on top of one another, clinging precariously to the edges of the steep gorge. The timing was just perfect - with the soft rays of the setting sun casting a magical hue on the mountainside. We spent a good amount of time just soaking in the magnificence.

We started our descend to Ragusa Ibla. Unlike Sicily’s other baroque towns, Ragusa Ibla has a medieval flamboyancy to it, with its pastel-painted cafés, palazzos, and workshops lining the cobbled streets. Ragusa Ibla is famous for its many elegantly Baroque churches, including the lavish Duomo di San Giorgio with its impressive neoclassical dome.

We spent some time in the main square, just enjoying the festive holiday décor.

It was getting dark and it had already been a really long day, so we decided to head back home for some rest and recharge for the day ahead.

And by the way, dinner was at Ristorante Al Castello at a town named Brucoli (15 minutes from our home in Augusta), per the recommendations of our vacation home owner. We tried out some exquisite items popular in the area.

Day 4: Province of Syracuse

We woke up to another gorgeous morning with a beautiful sunrise. The plan today was to explore the regions around the comunale di Siracusa, one of the most influential provinces of the Mediterranean region, founded by the Greeks over 2,700 years ago.

Ortygia:

Our very first stop today was the small island of Ortygia, the historical heart and soul of Syracuse connected to mainland by three bridges. Also known as Città Vecchia or old city, the tiny island surrounded by the deep turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea is the oldest part of Siracusa where the Greek Corinthians settled around 734 BC, and converted the area into the nucleus of the rapidly developing Mediterranean city.

We started our venture by heading towards the bustling outdoor market - Mercato di Ortigia, where fresh caught seafood, colorful vegetables and fruit cram the tightly packed stalls. Held every morning except Sunday, it is everything one expects an Italian market to be: a lot of shouting and singing in local dialect and wonderful aroma of fresh cooked food. We tried some local oranges and they were the absolute best oranges we had ever tasted and that too at a ridiculously cheap price!

The seaside atmosphere made us hungry already, and we decided to try an early lunch/brunch at Caseificio Borderi, a small sandwich shop in the market serving mouthwatering sandwich rolls filled with cured meats, cheeses and fresh salads. Fortunately the lines were not that long yet since we decided to eat early and managed to avoid the lunchtime queues.

We spent quite a bit of time wandering around the market, randomly stopping at different stalls to taste the local delicacies that caught our eyes. The olives, pistachios and almonds were especially delicious, and the dried fruit was worth braving the bees buzzing around us. The other item that was really yummy was the fresh fried calamari served in large paper cones - merely for the price of 5 Euros! They were finger-licking delicious and nostalgically reminded us of a popular street food found back home in Bangladesh, puffed rice with condiments served in newspaper cones, popularly known as "Jhaal-Muri".

We started walking towards the site of the Temple of Apollo, the remains of the oldest Doric temple in Sicily, dating back to the 6th Century B.C. Over the centuries the temple was converted to a Byzantine church, then to a Muslim mosque, and later back to a church under Norman control. It wasn't until the 1930s that the site was excavated and the remains of the temple were revealed. (Disclaimer: The photo here is a stock photo downloaded from the internet, somehow I didn't manage to capture any on my camera)

The beauty of Ortygia comes not only from visiting some of its most famous landmarks but also from simply strolling through its ancient labyrinth of streets, admiring the wide variety of architectural styles that range from Greek, Roman, Baroque and medieval Norman. A few minutes walk took us to the seawall surrounding the entire island of Ortygia. We let the seawall lead us along in our path, thoroughly enjoying the spectacular views of the crystal clear waters of the deep blue oceans and the coastal views of Siracusa city from multiple vantage points along it.

Long before, we reached the southern tip of the island, near the Fountain of Arethusa, situated in a sunken artesian pond that flows to the sea. According to Greek mythology, the fresh water fountain is the place where the nymph Arethusa, the patron figure of ancient Syracuse, returned to earth's surface after escaping from her undersea home in Arcadia.

Continuing our random wandering through the labyrinth of charming ancient and medieval streets packed with over 2,500 years of history, the stunning Cattedrale della Nativita di Maria Santissima (Cathedral of Syracuse) suddenly revealed itself in the magnificent Piazza Duomo, surrounded by numerous Baroque-style palaces and embellished by the presence of the Cathedral itself.

We spent some time in the Piazza, admiring the cathedral - the smooth Baroque lines of the surrounding buildings seemed to perfectly blend with the huge Doric columns of the Cathedral, its magnificent Baroque façade proudly dominating the town square. The interior of the church, a nave and two aisles, combine rustic walls and as expected, intricate Baroque details.

We were now ready to move on to our next destination...

Archaeological Park of the Neapolis

The archaeological park of the Neapolis, an area of ​​35 hectares, preserves the most important ancient monuments and ruins of the Green Roman city, in the heart of modern Syracuse. This park is divided in three sections which include the Latomie, the Greek theatre and the Roman amphitheater. In the interest of time we only visited the first two sites and skipped the Roman theater. Upon entering the park the first thing we saw was a beautiful garden called the garden of paradise. There we saw different kinds of flowers and plants but the most notable ones were the olive, lemon and orange trees, typical of the Sicilian landscape.

Latomia del Paradiso

The first section of the park contains the Latomia del Paradiso (Paradise Quarry), one of the most famous ancient caves of the period. The word Latomia comes from the Greek words for stone and cut, and it indicates open-air jails which were full of prisoners and slaves back in the 5th century BC. The inmates used to work in the caves to extract calcareous rock, which used to be used for almost all works of construction back in those days. We spent some time walking around the area, marveling the mere enormity of this deep, precipitous limestone quarry.

Particularly fascinating to us was the Orecchio di Dioniso (Ear of Dionysus), a stone cave so called because of its special shape, famous for creating a unique acoustic effect, causing sound to get amplified by a factor of 16!

Greek Theater:

Our next stop in the park was the Greek theater, built into the rocks of the Temenite hill, overlooking the modern city of Syracuse. It was first built in the 5th century BC, and renovated multiple times thereafter. The archaeological excavations carried out in the mid-twentieth century brought the theater back to the conditions in which it is found today making it the epicenter of the Archaeological Park of Neapolis.

Noto:

Our final stop of the day was Noto, the “cradle of Sicilian Baroque", the town reborn as the consequence of a catastrophe: the 1693 earthquake, which obliterated the lives, livelihoods and the entire town, and set in motion impressive reconstruction work resulting in the urban layouts with insanely picturesque buildings and churches of extraordinary architectural virtuosity.

We parked our car and started walking towards Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a wide and elegant walkway epitomizing the definition of Sicilian Baroque, flanked by iconic plazas and churches. We did not hesitate to stop randomly to take pictures, or just to enjoy the views. The Piazza houses many treasures, but the two buildings that immediately caught our attention were Palazzo Ducezio town hall and the Noto Cathedral of San Nicolò.

By now we had visited a lot of churches, cathedrals, monasteries and chapels in Italy, but Noto Cathedral was certainly one of the most impressive - both in size and the design of its ornate façade in the baroque style, with a hint of neo-classical elements. The interior of the cathedral, with a Latin cross floor plan and three naves, had undergone multiple renovations since its construction, reaching its present appearance only in 1899. The dome and surrounding walls were covered with frescoes of biblical characters and around the dome there was vibrant stained glass coverings.

Directly opposite the cathedral was the stunning Palazzo Ducezio, now Noto’s Town Hall. Inspired by the palaces of 17th century France, the upper level offers a chance for visitors to enjoy a sweeping panoramic view of the town and enjoy the best view of the Noto Cathedral across the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the piazza. It cost us €3 to enter the palazzo, but this combination ticket also allowed entry into Sala degli Specchi (the ‘Salon of Mirrors’), a richly stuccoed room once used as a small theatre.

It was towards the end of the day, and the warm afternoon sunlight cast a splendid golden hue on the surrounding buildings creating a magnificent scene for us to enjoy.

After some random explorations around the area, we were ready to call it a day. This was our last full day in the south-eastern region, we would head over to the Palermo area the next morning.

Day 5: Off to Palermo

Unfortunately, all good things have to end. Today was our day to leave our beautiful home in Augusta and head towards Palermo, the largest city of Sicily. We would definitely carry with us all the amazing memories of the southeast coast of Sicily - and hope to plan and come back here again someday.

The distance from Augusta, on the Ionian Coast in Eastern Sicily, to the city of Palermo on the northwest side of the island is around 260 km, and per the map, the drive would take us close to 4 hours. We started fairly early in the morning, and the drive literally took us from one coast of Sicily to the other - all the way from the Ionian coast to the Gulf of Palermo, through the heart of Sicily and through some spectacularly scenic roads. We did not take many stops along the way, trying to get to our destination while daylight was still there.

Once in Palermo after a 3+ hour drive, for the very first time we started questioning our decision to rent a car. Lightly put, driving in Palermo city was a nightmare, with absolutely no traffic rules in place. And not to mention the ultimate traffic hazard - motorbikes passing you on every possible side at a nauseating speed. Thankfully since we had rented our apartment in the heart of the pedestrian zone in Palermo, our plan was to return the rental car and explore this vibrant, and often chaotic metropolis city on foot.

Our very first stop in Palermo was our rental apartment for the next two nights. We wanted to drop off our luggage at the rental place, before we returned the rental car, in the hopes of avoiding walking across town with our suitcases. We drove over to Scirocco House, our home in Palermo, and while my husband waited in the car (did I say how impossible it is to find parking?) me and the kids went up to drop off the luggage. It was not time to check in yet, but the owners were really flexible and gladly let us keep our stuff there.

The next obvious thing was to drop off the rental car so that we could really start enjoying all that the town had to offer. I must say, our first impression of Palermo was not the greatest, especially coming from the cleaner and quieter regions, and experiencing the noisy, and crowded streets of the relatively modern part of downtown Palermo, strewn with a lot of filth and overflowing dumpsters. We skeptically started walking towards the historic old town where the pedestrian zone was, and soon found ourselves in this large and busy square (Piazza Ruggero Settimo) housing the Neoclassical building also known as the Teatro Politeama Garibaldi, home to the Sicilian Symphony Orchestra. The beautiful building is topped with the bronze chariot of Apollo pulled by 4 horses above a triumphal arch.

Randomly wandering, we found ourselves at a nicely decorated outdoor holiday market that immediately caught our attention - we had to take a stop to browse the colorful display of merchandise in the vibrant stalls, with the glistening trinkets lining the tables, and the aroma of fresh pretzels, chocolates, nuts and other local snacks all around us.

While it is true that the fact we chose Palermo as a stop because of the rich history, culture, and other specialties, there was one big tempting reason to add it to our travel bucket list — the food. All the walking and sitting in the car had made us hungry - we were ready to explore the culinary delights of Palermo that we had been hearing so much about. Our very first experience of food in Palermo was at Osteria Pizzeria Re Borbone. All the items tasted absolutely heavenly. A simple pizza Bufala with such rich flavor and taste - amazing!

We rambled around randomly for another hour or so, and decided to head back towards our apartment for some rest. The keys were left at the small reception on the first floor, and in no time we were inside the house. What awaited us inside was truly beyond expectation, especially in this bustling, crowded part of the historic town center. The apartment was super spacious, featuring 2 large bedrooms with vintage furnishings, thoughtful design touches and the comfort of an en-suite bathroom and another full bathroom.

There was also a balcony wrapping around one side, with a beautiful view of the city.

After a quick nap and rest, me and my husband decided to venture out and explore around. The kids were really tired and preferred to take a longer nap, and stay back at the apartment. It was already dark by the time we headed out, but the city seemed to have been reborn with the streets filled with thousands of people enjoying the lovely weather. As an additional treat, the Old Town seemed to have exploded in a beautiful display of Christmas lighting that created a surreal festive ambience. We walked over to Teatro Massimo, the largest opera house in Italy located on the Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, an ideal place to simply stand around and people watch. The ornate building housing the opera house was truly impressive with it magnificent neoclassical architecture and imposing façade. The grand lighted columns and the massive stairway covered with vibrant rows of poinsettias added an extra flair.

We kept walking along Via Maqueda, also known as "Strada Nuova", the main axis of the historic center of Palermo and the main pedestrian thoroughfare. In front of our eyes this magnificent, vibrant city seemed to be coming alive at night, with the market square and the alleys crowded with people eating, drinking, celebrating or just walking around. Needless to say, we immediately fell in love with this beautiful city, contradicting our initial skepticism when we first came here earlier today.

The walk through Via Maqueda brought us to the Quattro Canti, officially known as Piazza Vigliena, a circular Baroque square from the early seventeenth century, which is the heart of the Palermo historic district. The four quadrants of the intersection are occupied by buildings with similar, concave facades, giving the intersection an exquisite symmetrical dimension from all angles. A masterclass in the era’s rich sculptural heritage, the buildings in the four corners are studded with statues of the four Spanish kings of Sicily and the four patronesses of Palermo, as well as symbolic representations of the four seasons.

Located right next to the Quattro Canti, Piazza Pretoria is one of Palermo's most iconic locations. Surrounded by the architectural masterpieces of Chiesa di San Cataldo and Chiesa di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria, this public square is home to the once controversial Fontana Pretoria, also called the fountain of Shame, with tiered basins in concentric circles, crowded with nude statues of nymphs, tritons and leaping river gods.

San Cataldo Church

Santa Caterina church

Fontana Pretoria

Rising majestically behind the fountain, the Palazzo Pretorio – or Palace of the Eagles – is the seat of Palermo’s City Council. Entrance to this palace is free, and a visit inside took us through some magnificently decorated hallways with some marvelous pieces of art. Among the rooms that we visited the most notable one was the Sala delle Lapidi, now a council chamber, with the walls covered with inscriptions on marble slabs and with a beautiful seventeenth-century wooden chandelier in the center.

Our final stop (before the kids started texting us to go for dinner) was the beautiful Chiesa del Gesù, a Baroque-style, Roman Catholic church established under the patronage of the Jesuit order, and located at the nearby Piazza Casa Professa. Mass was in progress, so we hastily admired the jaw-dropping interior with the gilded decorative details and intricate patterns of inlaid colored marble and stone, and quietly left.

Dinner was at Grano Granis Trattoria Tipica Siciliana, an amazing family run restaurant for typical Sicilian cuisine with mouthwatering taste! It truly was one of the best meals of our trip. What better way to end the day!

Day 6: Sights and Sounds of Palermo

This was our last full day to experience the sights, smells, and sounds of this bustling Sicilian capital. We started strolling down Via Vittorio Emanuele, the enchanting street which also happens to be the oldest street in Palermo, overlooking some gorgeous churches, and ancient palaces of inestimable historical value. It was a delightful walk around the old town, admiring the historic landmarks, and visiting a variety of markets, with sudden stops to taste food that looked tempting. Before we knew it, we were at the intersection with Via Maqueda and staring at the same Quattro Canti that we had visited the night before. The baroque center of the city and meeting point of the four main districts of the historic center loomed before us with it exquisiteness in the bright morning sun, which created its own special effect that we did not experience during the night visit.

Next, we happened to stumble upon the Chiesa del Santissimo Salvatore (Church of the Most Holy Saviour), built originally in 1528, and renovated multiple times due to the damages caused by earthquakes and WW II. While the church has a fairly sober façade, with alternating niches and windows, the interior was truly 3D Baroque extravaganza - the Baroque designs really stood out in the mostly muted whites and greys. The church is also known as "Church-Theater" for the unusual elongated dodecagon shape of the building, and the dramatic entrance oriented sideways that made us feel like we were entering a renaissance play, with the stucco angels and marble everywhere and rows of seats seemingly waiting for a grand audience.

Our next stop was Cattedrale di Palermo, built in 1184 by the Normans as a re-converted Christian church on the site of a Muslim Mosque that was previously built over a Christian basilica, bearing testimony to the multi-ethnic past of Palermo. This is the most quintessential place in Palermo to get a sense of the Sicily’s signature Arab-Norman architectural style. As invaders and settlers from across the continent have come and gone, the architecture of this magnificent structure has evolved to display an enchanting blend of influences, creating a façade that is a treasure trove of architectural history.

The magnificent interior has some ornate marble and stone inlay work, and houses gorgeous baroque paintings that replaced the original wooden ceiling, both characteristic of the 18th century renovations. The walls sparkled with religious relics and geometric decorations, including some really intricate marble statues.

Stepping out of the cathedral, we made our way through a lovely garden (popularly known as Villa Bonanno) lined with palm trees and lush greenery; towards the Palazzo dei Normanni (Palermo Royal Palace of the Normans), the oldest Royal palace in Europe and an interesting building in its own. Unfortunately we did not have enough time to take a tour inside, and view the Palatine Chapel, on the upper floor of the Palace, known to be the highlight of the visit here. Saving it for our next trip to Palermo.

Lunch was at a restaurant named Al Casato dei Ventimiglia, close to the Royal Palace, on Via del Bastione. To our utmost disappointment, food was just okay, not living up to the standards of the Palermo gastronomic experiences we had gotten used to.

Kids were already tired of walking, so decided to rent scooters (scooters for rent are plentiful everywhere) and head back towards the apartment, somehow managing to convince us that they knew the way back without a GPS (phone data was not working for them). My husband and I continued on our stroll, walking in ancient footsteps through the historic city, taking in every sight and sound, gazing at the honey-hued maze of churches and crumbling palazzos all around us.

We passed through the Mercato del Capo, a bustling outdoor market in the ancient district of Il Capo with vendors peddling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, cheese and household goods of every kind. Less touristy than Palermo's other famous food markets, the atmosphere here was vibrant and lively, with some excellent street food options along the main artery - both me and my husband regretted not making this our lunch stop, seeing all the mouthwatering food options in display.

It would not be fair if I did not mention the amazing gelato shop that we frequently visited over this period of a day and a half. Amunì Gelaterie, right across the street from our apartment on Via Mariano Stabile, had gelato with the silkiest texture, packed with amazing flavor and taste.

Dinner was simply spectacular - and was the best way to end this fabulous trip. The restaurant Da Bacco was not only fairly priced, the quality of the typical Italian food was authentic and simply sensational, served fresh and warm from the kitchen. It was hands down the best meal of the trip!

In preparation for our early morning flight back the next day, we decided to retire early, right after dinner. Sadly our fabulous trip had come to an end. We carried with us fond memories of this 6 day trip to Sicily - it had all that we needed for a perfect vacation — beautiful architecture steeped in rich history and culture, flavors of the coast, and last but definitely not least, the amazing food. Arrivederci.